Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Excuse Me For the Breakdown...POVERTY MAKES ME ANGRY!!!

My life is very easy; I have everything I could ever want and need. Now that I have a pretty good grasp of one of the world's most poverty-stricken areas, I'm trying my best to keep myself from crying, kicking, and screaming right now. I must stay strong for the Malawian people. My life is so easy, and I constantly have opportunities to make it even better and even easier...if I don't stay strong for these people, who will? Who am I to cry in Malawi next to a young, impoverished, starving, SMILING child? I'm so angry at myself for even thinking that crying is an option.

Tonight, on my way home from an HIV Testing/Counseling Training Session in Mwanza, I sat in the back of an ambulance with a mother who had just given birth to twins yesterday. The boy/girl twins were the most perfect, beautiful new-born babies I'd ever seen in my life. I kept praising the infants to the mother and praising the mother for bringing such incredible human beings into the world. Normally, in this situation, the mother would be glowing, smiling from ear to ear, and completely giddy about her new life. However, as I looked into the mother's eyes again and again throughout our one hour drive back to Neno, the intense fear overcame me and struck chords inside of me very violently. Feeding one baby in Malawi is hard enough, the nightmare of not having enough food for two quickly became the obvious reason for the mother's fear. In such a glorious and miraculous time in a woman's life, this should be the last thing on her mind. Unfortunately, for this particular mother, this fear was superseding all other normal/happy emotions. This is not fair! The chords had been struck, and it was all downhill from there...

Every single human being on this planet is entitled to the basics--clean water, shoes, a roof, and medical care. It is NOT okay that hundreds/thousands of people in Malawi do not have these basic human needs. It is NOT okay that a mother has to spend her entire year's income to travel to the nearest health clinic because her baby is dying of malaria. It is NOT okay that over one million Malawian children do not have families because their parents died of preventable diseases such as malaria, HIV, etc. It is NOT okay that 3 year old children are still breast-feeding from their mother, desperately sucking as if they will be able to create more milk inside, because it is the only form of nutrition available to them. It is NOT okay that 8 year old girls are taking care of their 4 younger siblings because their mother died of AIDS. It is NOT okay that people are dying from diarrhea because they do not have clean water to drink. It is NOT okay that hundreds of children to not have the opportunity to become educated because the 3 hour walk to and from school is too hard on their small, undernourished bodies. It is NOT okay that Rose (one of my best friends in Malawi) just found out about the death of her lover/children's father that occurred over a month ago because she cannot afford communication (he was forced to find work in South Africa). It is NOT okay that people see death in a tiny, microscopic mosquito, yet are too poor to take the necessary precautions to prevent malaria. It is NOT okay that people fear the rain because the thatch roof over their entire life just might not survive one more downpour. It is NOT okay that older people (if they're still living) are too embarrassed to smile because they've lost their teeth due to the fact that they can't afford a toothbrush/toothpaste (those are the last things on the priority list). It is NOT okay that these beautiful, caring, hard-working children cannot become anything their heart desires. It is NOT okay that 1 out of every 7 children born in Malawi will likely become HIV positive. It is NOT okay that every child born in Malawi will likely die before they reach the age of 37. It is NOT okay that these 37 years of living will be so much freaking harder than the majority of the world's habitants could ever possibly fathom! It is NOT okay that a 4 year old boy in Malawi has already experienced more heartache, devastation, and tragedy than most of us will experience in a lifetime.

Is is NOT okay that these people are isolated from the rest of the world, so that everybody who wants to continue their fortunate lifestyles without any guilt can easily do so. It is NOT okay that these people have been forgotten about by so many people, for such a long time.

I am in Malawi this summer, giving these people everything I can possibly give. For some strange reason, the more I give, the dirtier I feel. The more interactions I have with these amazing Malawian people, the more obvious my contributions to the global poverty trap become. The more things I see that are "NOT okay", the angrier and angrier I become. However, the more in touch I become with these emotions inside of me, the stronger and stronger my drive to help becomes!!!

Such is the life of a public servant...

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Golden Knowledge about Wowie Malawi!!!

Seeing as how I've been here for almost 3 weeks and I have yet to inform you all of the specifics of where I now live, I figured it was finally time for a lesson. So, if you're ready, read on my dear friends.

The Republic of Malawi is a democratic, densely populated country located in the southeastern region of Africa. It borders Zambia, Mozambique, and Tanzania. The national language is Chichewa, although those who are fortunate enough to attend school learn English. Malawi gained its independence from the UK on July 6, 1964 (so it's looking like I'll be celebrating my Independence Day along with my lovely Malawian friends). Almost 13 million people live on 46,000 square miles. Malawi has a GDP per capita of 596 US dollars. Its 3 most important export crops are tobacco, tea, and sugar.

For the ones who are fortunate enough to earn a living in Malawi, most are earning between $0.30 and $0.70 cents per day. Subsistence farming is the way of life--people try to grow enough food on their property in order to feed their families. Malawi is the one of the poorest countries in the world. The life expectancy is around 36 years old, and the number has been steadily dropping over time due to the country's impoverishment, which is constituted by the following factors: insufficient nutrition, lack of access to medical care, low income (less than $1 a day), extreme lack of foresight by the government, insufficient school education, spread of HIV/AIDS, government economic restrictions, corruption, and climate change. Out of every 10 children born in Malawi, 1 does not survive. 14.2% of the population is HIV positive, so about 1 out of every 7 people I see is infected. Health clinics are always jammed packed with mothers and their children who are dying because of very preventable illnesses--mainly diarrhea, respiratory illness, and malaria. Many of these mothers have spent months and months of income just trying to get to a heath clinic, again because the area is so rural.

The hospital that CHDI is building is going to be amazing for the entire Neno district. The current facility is about 2500 square feet and sees more than 200 patients everyday, with a staff of 3 (the most senior of which is a 2nd year med student in the U.S. until the PIH doctors came--yeah!). The Clinton Foundation is partnering with an organization called Partners In Health, and together with the Malawian Government, they are building a 60 bed hospital that will employ 150 people, including 30 nurses and 15 highly educated MDs. As many as 100,000 people in the Neno district (and beyond) will have access to free healthcare and free prescriptions drugs, including ARVs (anti-retroviral) and other first and second-line drugs that fight HIV and AIDS. In the past, very few health centers, if any, had access to these life-saving drugs. Did you know that a person with HIV/AIDS can live a perfectly normal life for 30 years or longer, once they get on ARVs? These people will be much more likely to die from heart disease or other cause of death than HIV/AIDS. I quickly learned that access is the number one preventive measure against unnecessary deaths. If the drugs that we now have access to reach the people they are supposed to help, many illnesses can be helped, cured, and even prevented.

The communities are extremely simple and very small--one school, one health clinic, one outdoor market, and a slew of mud huts. There are no paved roads in Neno, and no locals drive a car. A few people have bicycles, but the main way of transport is by foot. Where I live (in Neno Boma), I am at about 4,000 square feet and surrounded by mountainous villages. The land here is so beautiful it looks fake. I wish you could all come visit me and see for yourselves how incredibly beautiful Malawi is--the land and especially the people!!!

Tuesday, June 19, 2007


This is the location on site where the bricks are made. The small, black compressing mechanism in the middle of the picture is used to compact the dirt, soil, and concrete into bricks. Hundreds and hundreds of bricks are made here everyday...
I have never been so impressed with human beings and what we are capable of...This picture is of the men and women working on the CHDI housing site in Neno. Each individual brick is made by hand from dirt, sand, and concrete. Then, the bricks are cured in the sunlight and carried one by one to the site (so they don't break in transit). The workers then make their own concrete mixture in barrels and roll the barrels to the site to set the bricks. Watching them work is amazing. They are making wonderful progress on the hospital staff houses. The first 8 units should be completed in 10 days or so. I'm continuing go work closely with Cliff, the site foreman, to ensure that progress is made everyday and people are staying on task and on schedule.

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Listen to Flat Stanley..."Stop AIDS...Keep the promise."

Friday, June 15, 2007






Rose is a professional, and I am a lost cause!!! hahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa, this was hilarious!!!




















On the top, Dr. Keith Joseph and I are with some of the ladies working on the housing site. On the bottom is me inside one of the houses being built for future hospital staff. The project is very visually stimulating right now because you can actually see progress being made with each and every brick laid...this is a very exciting time for everyone!!!

Thursday, June 14, 2007















Today was a wonderful day!!! I cooked and ate my first taste of SIMA...a special Malawian treat of flour and water...yummy! Rose, one of the keepers of the CHDI guesthouse, taught me how to make it . Literally, boil water and then pour in flour or corn meal (depending on your preference). Stir it with a wooden stick until it gets very hard and thick. Ta dah!!! Sima at its finest...today, Rose, Mary, and I paired it with some vegetables and eggs. The men, however, wrapped fish around their balls of sima (an option I might choose to stray away from, haha). Lunch break in Malawi is a real adventure, as you can now see! It was a wonderful experience and my initiation into the village of Neno.
Things here in Neno are progressing quite well. My job responsibilities change every day, and they will continue to change every day until I leave. I will be doing everything from overseeing the construction of the new hospital and staff houses, to gathering data related to local HIV patients for hospital programming, to doing advance preparatory work for President Clinton's visit in July, to teaching tutorial classes on the Internet for future hospital workers, to doing community outreach for future CHDI and PIH programs, and much more. I'm about to spend my first weekend in the village, and I can't wait to walk through the hills, visit all of the small villages, and meet all of the people. Rice and beans for every meal is surprisingly not bad--it's very flavorful and quite tasty!!! Seeing the people here pump their own water, carry bundles of wood on their heads, and walk 2 hours to and from work every day is making me feel pretty worthless! Maybe they can teach me how to balance a bucket of water on my head before August 10...

Monday, June 11, 2007


Neno Boma is the coolest place in the world! I'm finally here after spending the weekend in Lilongwe (luxury living, relatively speaking). The ride down to Neno was quite interesting. The first three hours were on a paved road, so we could drive a relatively fast speed (when we weren't dodging children, cows, goats, and chickens in the middle of the road). This stretch of Malawi consisted of the most wonderful produce trading markets and the most interesting roadside treats (i.e. Malawian Sausage--boiled rat shish-ka-bob)...yes, it's exactly like the image that just popped into your brain...a long stick holding 8 whole boiled street rats. (For those of you whose stomach isn't quite as strong as mine was today, I will spare you and refrain from posting the picture of this sight on my blog.) Then, the last hour of my trip to Neno was on a dirt path, through a Baobab forest. It was the bumpiest and prettiest drive I've ever taken. When we finally arrived in Neno, I couldn't believe my eyes. This small, rural district of Malawi is going to teach me so much about 3rd world living, development initiatives, humanity, life, and me as a person. I am going to see the highest of highs and the lowest of lows in this village. Every child I see is the most beautiful, perfect child I've ever seen, and I wish I could do more than spend one summer of my life helping them. I want to give them the world!!! Hopefully, my efforts here this summer will instill hope in their hearts.

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Fun at my 1st Net-Ball Game...


Here is another picture of my 1st net-ball game. We had so much fun!!! Check out the net-ball hoop in the background...

Off to NENO...

My first Monday morning in the office has finally arrived, and I still have lots of orienting to do before I'm completely comfortable on the job. I'm heading to the village of Neno today, where I'll be basing out of for the rest of the summer. I have my first meeting today at 1 pm, regarding the progress of the new Partners in Health hospital that PIH and CHDI are building together. It should be very interesting, and hopefully, I'll get pulled into my work right away! I am not yet mentally prepared to live in Neno, but Tyler said that he has not prepared me on purpose. Living is interesting here in Lilongwe, and compared to Neno...this place might as well be New York City. I'm very excited though. Neno is full of the experiences that I've craved for so long in my life. I am sure to be fulfilled in every aspect. I will take lots of pictures, and hopefully post them soon so you can all get a glimpse of my new living situation (depending on my internet access there). I'm finally over my jetlag, but sweating is still prohibiting a full night's rest. Hopefully, I'll get used to the sleeping conditions soon. All in all...I'm loving Malawi!!!

Saturday, June 9, 2007

My New Best Friends!!!


This afternoon, after I completed some work, I went on a little walk around town. All of a sudden, I heard some kids yelling at me, which completely took me by surprise. I looked around the corner of a half-constructed building, saw these beautiful kids, gave them a friendly hello, and that was that!!! They all ran up to me and swarmed me with hugs and kisses. They all wanted to talk to me and hold my hand. Wow! Suzahn, Dorico, and the crew all became my first best friends in Malawi. After some friendly conversation, the kids said they had something to show me...I followed them around the corner of the building, and saw the court, and they asked me if I wanted to play net-ball (their version of basketball). Of course I wanted to play!!! For the next hour, we all played net-ball together, and it was sooooooooooo much fun! The basketball goal (or net goal) consisted of a long bamboo pole stuck into the ground, with a bamboo hoop tied to the top of the pole. It was an absolute blast, and I learned so much about the children here from our short game. They did not split up into teams so there is never a "loser" in the game...everyone is always a winner!!! The kids make sure that everyone playing gets a pass and gets the chance to shoot, and when someone makes a "net"...they all go crazy--jumping up and down, cheering, chanting, and hugging each other endlessly! What beautiful, truly happy, and easy-t0-please children!!! This is only the first of many lessons to learn while in Africa...one thing I know for sure is this: In Africa, there is so much more to learn than to teach...

I love these kids, and I have a feeling I will be playing net-ball every Saturday I have the chance.

Friday, June 8, 2007

Well hello my dear friends...I made it to the great country of Malawi earlier this afternoon around 1 pm after 2 and a half days of travel. Mom and Dad, I know you told me to be careful what I eat...you should feel good that I waited a whole 5 minutes after leaving the airport to stop and eat off the street. Alec, the driver, pulled our jeep over to the side of the road, and we all bought some roasted corn from a Malawian man--raw shucks of corn cooked over a blazing fire--delicious!!! My stuff is at the guesthouse for now, which is already fully equipped with a mosquito net and all. I'm at the CHDI office right now, and it's very, very nice! I've already met all the Malawian staff here at CHDI, and they are wonderful! Tyler is about to take me for a ride around town, let me explore a little bit, then out to dinner with friends, then bedtime...finally!!! I'm exhausted, but I'm way too excited to sleep right now...

Thursday, June 7, 2007

Finally, my trip is off to a great start. I'm sitting in the Atlanta airport, enjoying my last meal consisting of McDonald's chicken nuggets and fries (nothing makes me feel more American than shoving my face with some Mickey D's...thanks Hadley's). Fortunately, the minute I sat down to eat, a very talented silver-haired man sat down at the piano and broke the silence that was beginning to make me think way too much. I've never seen people so happy and carefree in an airport before. He is great...I really want to leave him an excellent tip for making my wait in the airport terminal quite pleasant, but I always forget that I'm really just a poor graduate student and rationing is the skill I must begin mastering sooner rather than later.

Now that I'm finally smiling and truly enjoying myself, I can laugh at my series of morning events that have led me to this moment. After a long night of completely sleepless, pseudo-rest, I arose around 7 am, tried to savor my last shower, scrubbing myself ever so consciously simply so I would remember what hot water and soap suds felt like on my body. Then, I proceeded to cry for about the next hour...happy tears...sad tears...tears with mysterious origins that left me with only the most mysterious emotions that I desperately wanted to shake. Because my family is currently on the beach in Puerta Vallarta (thoroughly enjoying themselves I'm quite sure), John took me to the airport this morning. I thought the airline attendant made a mistake on my ticket (which she said she didn't and she actually did--huge fiasco in Dakar, Senegal that I'll have to write about later), hence my first minor eruption.

After we worked all of that mess out...I said one last goodbye to JC (so I thought) and made my way to the front of the security line, where I was about to load my bags onto the conveyer belt. Low and behold...leave it to me...I then (unsurprisingly) caused the biggest scene the Memphis airport had seen in a while. I reached for my ticket and passport...and BAMMMMMM!!! My chest tightened up, and I felt as though someone had taken a knife, started at my right collar bone and went straight down all the way to my gall bladder. I turned completely white and proceeded to pass out from the pain. Fortunately, my newfound friend, Earl, caught me from behind and eased me to the floor. I came to, only to realize that I could not really breathe, and I was surrounded by police officers and security guards who were telling me that the nurse and parademics were on the way. People suddenly began to grab my cell phone from me and scroll through my dialed calls to find a family member. Fortunately, I was conscious enough to just yell 2!!! John, who had just gotten to his car (probably relieved that the departure drama with me was finally over), is number 2 in my speed dial. Little did he know that the drama had only just begun!!! The police officers called him for me, and I told him to come back inside.

Wow, haha. If any of you though I was freaking out before...you should have seen me and felt my pulse during this little episode. Sitting on the airport floor with my head in my hands, I was trying to escape the dramatic reality of my present state. Why, oh why, does drama always follow the Merry Mess wherever we go? Mom and Dad, remember all of those family vacations that were filled with mishaps and drama? Well, you'll be glad to know that they were not all your fault. I think someone cast a spell on our family a long time ago, and there's nothing we can do about it now, haha.

Although the piercing pain had disappeared, I was still short of breath due to the tightness in my chest. Thankfully, John made his way back into the airport and was there to hold my hand. As if my situation was not bad enough, this all just had to take place at the exact spot that every single person flying out of the Memphis airport had to pass to get through security...alas crowds of loud graduates soon departing for senior trips, inquisitive little kids, and lovely families all passed me, staring with curiosity. I would normally love the attention (haha, sadly enough), but this was just strange.

The nurse finally arrived and was quite calm until I tol her that I've had a VSD in my heart since I was born. Then, she kind of started freaking me out just a little. My pulse seemed to be okay, but my blood pressure was a different story. She took it a couple of times until we all just accepted the fact that my heart was pumping unusually fast. By this time, I was a little embarrassed, extremely weak, sweating, and paranoid that I was going to miss my plane. Everyone with Delta Airlines was extremely nice to me, and they even let John get a special pass to come all the way to the plane gate with me because I could not carry my bags.

We finally made it to my gate, not really knowing what the heck just happened. Severe anxiety attack...heart problem...miserable side effect from my malaria medication...all three (haha)??? Fortunately, I'll be surrounded by doctors all summer long, while I work with the Clinton Foundation and Partners in Health. If something as weird as this happens again, thank the Lord that I'm in good hands.

This is most definitely one of the weirdest things that has ever happened to me. Although I was freaking out at the time, thinking about this morning's events now is quite comical. I could not have started this adventure any other way. Mom, Dad, Bryan, Justin, and Abbey...it was rather sad to have this episode all alone. Normally, you are all right there causing scenes and beings drama kings and queens with me.

I hope this story gave you all a good laugh or two, as it did me. Hopefully, all of the hiccups of my travels are now over!!! That episode was enough drama to last me a summer...hahahaha.